Condition is everything in vintage. Two identical garments from the same era can be worth vastly different amounts depending on their state of preservation. Understanding condition grades helps you make informed purchases — and appreciate why certain pieces command the prices they do.
The Grading Scale
Deadstock / New Old Stock (NOS)
Never worn, often still with original tags. This is the Holy Grail of vintage collecting — a garment preserved exactly as it left the factory. Deadstock pieces are exceptionally rare for anything pre-1990 and command premium prices. The fabric is unwashed, the colors are unfaded, and the construction is factory-fresh. However, some collectors actually prefer broken-in pieces for daily wear.
Excellent
Minimal signs of wear. No stains, holes, or repairs. Fabric is intact with no thinning. Colors may show very slight fading. Hardware fully functional. This is the sweet spot for most buyers — a piece that's been barely worn but doesn't carry the deadstock premium. An "excellent" vintage leather jacket might show slight creasing at the elbows but no cracks, scuffs, or damage.
Very Good
Light wear consistent with age. Minor fading, slight softening of fabric, perhaps a small mark that's not immediately visible. Hardware works. Stitching is intact. This is the most common grade for quality vintage pieces — they've been worn and enjoyed but properly cared for. Most vintage denim falls into this category: natural fading patterns, whiskers at the hips, honeycombs behind the knees — the characteristics that collectors actually seek out.
Good
Moderate wear that's visible but doesn't compromise wearability. May include minor repairs, visible fading, small stains, or minor pilling. The garment is structurally sound and has plenty of life left. "Good" condition vintage is often the best value — you get the character and authenticity at a lower price point, and the wear tells a story.
Fair
Significant wear or damage that's visible and may affect wearability. This might include thinning fabric, notable stains, missing hardware, or amateur repairs. Fair-condition pieces can still be valuable if the garment is rare enough — a fair-condition 1960s Big E Levi's jacket is still worth more than a mint-condition modern reproduction.
What to Look For (and What to Avoid)
Acceptable Wear
- Natural fading: Sun fading on shoulders, whisker fading on denim — these are character marks that add value
- Patina on leather: Darkening, softening, and surface variation from years of use — this is what makes vintage leather irreplaceable
- Print cracking on tees: Moderate cracking on a 40-year-old screen print is expected and authentic
- Slight stretching: Waistbands and necklines may have relaxed slightly — this usually means the piece was well-loved
Red Flags
- Musty or chemical odors that don't wash out: Some smells are permanent and indicate mold or chemical damage
- Thinning at stress points: Hold fabric up to light — if you can see through it at the crotch, underarms, or elbows, the garment has limited life left
- Moth holes: Small, perfectly round holes in wool or cashmere indicate moth damage that may be ongoing
- Dry rot: Fabric that tears easily when pulled, crumbling rubber elements, or disintegrating elastic — these can't be repaired
- Amateur alterations: Poorly done hemming, uneven seams, or wrong-color repair thread can diminish both appearance and value
Why Measurements Matter More Than Size Tags
Vintage sizing is not standardized. A "Medium" from 1975 might fit like a modern "Small." A "32-waist" on a 1980s pair of jeans might measure 34 inches at the actual waistband. Always check actual measurements — pit-to-pit chest, shoulder seam to shoulder seam, back length, waist circumference, inseam — rather than relying on the tag size. Any reputable vintage seller provides these measurements. If they don't, ask before buying.
At DNA
Every piece in our archive is condition-graded, measured, and photographed to show its actual state. We believe in transparency — character marks and all. Because a well-worn vintage piece with an honest description is worth infinitely more than an over-hyped listing that disappoints when it arrives.